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<< Chapter 14: Zaragoza and Barcelona
My next stop was Nice, quite far from Barcelona. Early in the morning, I took the metro to the other side of Barcelona and then a commuter train to the border station of Portbou. After crossing into France I had to change trains twice, in Narbonne and Marseille, before finally arriving in Nice. Including the subway trip in Barcelona, that’s five trains and thirteen hours of travel in a single day. The trip was pretty uneventful except for one funny episode. When I got off the train in Narbonne I went to check from which platform my next train would depart, and I found out that it was the exact same train that I just left, so I went back to sit exactly where I sat earlier.
The following morning I began my tour of Nice from the adorned Orthodox Cathedral of Saint Nicholas and then I went to the Promenade des Anglais, the popular seaside avenue with historic buildings and monuments. I walked along the seafront for a while, and then I turned toward the city center to reach Place Masséna, a large square adorned with a fountain, before walking along the park of the Promenade du Paillon. The Paillon river flows underneath this area after being completely covered by the park and other buildings between the nineteenth and twentieth century.
I passed by the Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art, but I didn’t visit it, and then I stopped at the Tête Carrée (Square Head), a large sculpture and building depicting a cubic head which curiously hosts the offices of a library. I walked past Garibaldi Square, adorned with a statue of the hero of the Italian unification that was born in Nice, and finally I reached the small historic Port Lympia. I went all the way to the lighthouse and then back along the seafront, past the large monument dedicated to fallen soldiers, and up the Castle Hill.
I walked a bit around the hilltop area getting some great views over the city and the coast, and then I went down to the old town. There, I had lunch with a great socca, a kind of local pancake, and then I enjoyed an ice cream in the main square of the old town. While I was there, it started to rain. I saw the Nice Cathedral and I walked through the Cours Saleya plaza but, after a last look around the old town, I went back to the hostel since it was raining too much.
The next day I visited the nineteenth, and last, country of this journey, the Principality of Monaco. After a short train trip from Nice, I arrived at the local train station, which is completely underground and has tunnels that connect it with various parts of the city. Throughout my visit, I tried to follow the path of the Formula One circuit so, starting from the Sainte-Dévote Chapel, I went toward the renowned Monte Carlo Casino, and I went inside to get a glimpse of the abundance of this place.
Afterwards, I went down the Fairmont hairpin, one of the most famous turns in Formula One, and then through the equally popular seaside tunnel. I followed the waterfront where many yachts were parked and then I visited the Vintage Car Collection of the Prince of Monaco, a rich museum with many historic cars including some from Formula One. After walking around the La Condamine neighborhood, I had a quick but good lunch with two local specialties: pissaladière, a dish similar to a pizza but thicker and with anchovies, and a barbajuan, a kind of traditional fritter.
I then went up the Rock of Monaco to the Prince’s Palace, where I arrived just in time to see the changing of the guard. The view from the plaza in front of the castle was amazing, and I stopped at various panoramic spots all around the old town. Wandering around the area, I saw the adorned Cathedral of Our Lady Immaculate and I passed in front of the Oceanographic Museum, but I didn’t visit it because it was a bit too expensive. I kept exploring the area and I stopped to get some of the prestigious local chocolate before going down to the Fontvieille neighborhood. After a walk around there, I slowly headed back to the train station. Monaco is really beautiful and pleasant, although also very expensive. Everywhere you can feel the immense wealth of this city, with luxury stores, fancy cars, and huge yacths all over the place.
Since I finished early in Monaco, I made another quick stop in Villefranche-sur-Mer, a tiny resort town between the Principality and Nice. I went to the old town and I crossed the Rue Obscure (Dark Street), a covered passageway under old houses, before visiting the citadel that now hosts the town hall. I walked a bit on the beautiful seafront before going back to Nice. There, I had time to visit the Basilica of Notre-Dame, that was closed when I passed by it the previous day, and then I wandered around the old town until I reached the Promenade des Anglais. I stayed there for some time, enjoying some incredible views of the sea at sunset. Nice was really pleasant, especially the charming old town and the entire Promenade des Anglais, just a walk on this beautiful seafront makes a visit to the city worth it.
After a long journey across Europe, I went back to Italy on the penultimate day of my adventure. I took a morning train from Nice and I crossed the border to reach Ventimiglia. I just had enough time to take a quick look around and cross the bridge that leads to the old town, before going back to station. Two and a half hours later I was in Genoa. I stopped at the Brignole station and, after passing by the large Victory Arch, I finally fulfilled my desire for sushi, that I had for ten days, when I stopped at a Japanese restaurant.
After seeing the cathedral, I reached the seafront at the frescoed Palazzo San Giorgio. I then visited the Aquarium of Genoa, the main reason I stopped in this city. I love aquariums and this one did not disappoint, it hosts a wide range of species and it was truly enjoyable. Afterwards, I walked around the port area, seeing some landmarks such as the Neptune, a replica of a seventeenth-century Spanish galleon, and the shopping area of the old port, where I enjoyed a view of the Lighthouse of Genoa at sunset. I walked through the narrow roads of the old town and I passed by the Doge’s Palace, which I couldn’t visit because it was too late, and the central square Piazza de Ferrari. After going through the ancient Porta Soprana city gate, I headed back to the hostel. I wish I had more time in Genoa, it’s a city that always fascinated me and I’m happy that I was able to make a short stop there, it was truly enjoyable and a good way to end the trip.
My Interrail pass actually expired that day. The ride from Nice to Genoa was the last one included in the pass as it was my return trip into Italy, and any journey in my country on the following day would have not been included anyway. Knowing this, I purposely planned my stop in Genoa to coincide with the last day of validity of the pass so I could use it to the fullest extent. The next morning I took the train from Genoa to Piacenza, where I had barely enough time to go take a quick look at the cathedral before going back to the station and, after one more change in Bologna, I arrived home in Rovigo.
That’s it, that’s the entire journey. 62 days, 50 destinations, 19 countries, over 900 kilometers of walking, and a total of around 16,000 kilometers of travel. I took 97 trains, 7 trams, 7 buses, 7 ships and I made 2 trips on funiculars. I stayed in 27 hostels and 2 friends’ houses. I took almost 6,000 photos and videos. I saw countless masterpieces of art and architecture, breathtaking landscapes, and charming towns, while tasting some delicious food. I even managed to see a concert of my favorite group and take pictures with them. It was a once-in-a-lifetime experience that few are able to enjoy, and I’m thankful that I was able to do it and that everything went as planned. It was tiring, even exhausting at times, especially dragging so much luggage around and always having to worry about not spending too much money. In the end I was happy to go home and rest for a while, but if I could leave again for a brand new trip, I would do it without questions. And so should you. If you have the opportunity to travel, go and explore the world, there’s so much more to discover than you could ever imagine.