France is a country with a rich history and culture and, while Paris and the other large cities attract the most tourists, there is an abundance of smaller towns worth a visit. One of the most notable of these is Carcassonne, a town located in the south of the country and known for its incredibly well preserved medieval old town, known as the Cité.
Carcassonne is located along the river Aude in the region of Occitania, north of the Pyrenees and not far from Toulouse and Narbonne. The town is also crossed by the Canal du Midi which, along with the Canal du Garonne, connects the Atlantic Ocean to the Mediterranean. The fortified medieval city is located on a hill to the east of the Aude, while the newer area is in the plain between the Aude and the Canal du Midi.
Best times to visit Carcassonne and how to get there
The city can be easily reached by train as it lies along the Bordeaux–Sète railway, one of the main lines of Southern France. Regional and intercity trains from Narbonne and Toulouse take an hour or less to reach Carcassonne, while traveling from Montpellier and Bordeaux takes around two and three hours respectively. High speed TGV trains from Lyon and Toulouse often stop in Carcassonne.
The small Carcassonne Airport, located at the western edge of the city, offers flights from London, Manchester, and Charleroi, with seasonal connections to other destinations in the United Kingdom and Ireland, as well as Porto and Cagliari. Carcassonne is also served by various bus lines that link the city to all the nearby towns, while the A61 motorway provides a connection to Toulouse and Narbonne.
The climate of Carcassonne is moderately hot in summer, while winter temperatures are mild. The best time to visit the city is between May and October, when rain is less frequent. However, occasional thunderstorms might occur in late summer and early autumn.
Position of Carcassonne in Occitania (edited from a work by Flappiefh, Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 4.0).
History of Carcassonne
The area around Carcassonne was first settled in prehistoric times, and by the 6th century BCE the town was already an important trade center. The Romans recognized the strategic position of the city and fortified the hilltop around the year 100 BCE. These fortifications were later expanded by the Visigoths, who captured the region of Septimania in Southern France during the 5th century. In the 8th century, the city was first taken by the Arabs and then by the Franks.
As a medieval fiefdom, Carcassonne was ruled by various local noble families, and became a stronghold of the Cathars, a Christian movement deemed as heretic by the Catholic Church. During the Albigensian Crusade, the Catholic forces sieged and then captured Carcassonne in 1209. The town became part of the Kingdom of France in 1247 and served as an important fortress due to its proximity to the border with Aragon and then Spain.
The city’s military importance was reduced after the Treaty of the Pyrenees in 1659, when the province of Roussillon was transferred to France, moving the border further away from Carcassonne. The fortifications were abandoned, and in 1849 they were set to be demolished. The local people opposed the decision, along with historians and archaeologists, and ultimately the old town was instead restored starting in 1853. In more recent times, the medieval town has turned into a major tourist destination, and in 1997 it was added to the list of UNESCO World Heritage sites. Meanwhile, the lower town of Carcassonne developed since the Late Middle Ages and became an important center for the textile industry and winemaking.
View of the Cité of Carcassonne from the Pont-Vieux.
What to see and do in Carcassonne
The main attraction of Carcassonne is obviously the Cité, the medieval citadel located on a hilltop east of the river Aude. A series of imposing walls surrounds the old town, and features over fifty towers topped by the characteristic pointy roofs. These were actually added during the restoration of the 19th century, and were criticized for being historically inaccurate, but nevertheless became a notable feature of the Cité.
The Porte Narbonnaise, located on the east side of the Cité, is the main entrance to the fortified town. Inside, the citadel is characterized by narrow cobbled alleys and ancient buildings now occupied by restaurants and souvenir shops. The Château Comtal is the castle inside the Cité, and hosts a museum of local history. A visit to the castle also allows tourists to walk along the top of the walls and get a great view of the surrounding area.
Fortifications in the Cité of Carcassonne.
The path on top of the ramparts ends at the southern edge of the Cité, near the Basilica of Saints Nazarius and Celsus, a Gothic and Romanesque church built between the 11th and 13th century. The choir of the basilica is adorned with elaborate stained glass windows, one of which dates from 1280 and is among the oldest of its kind in France.
The Cité also hosts some peculiar small museums, such as the Museum of the Inquisition (Musée de l’Inquisition), which displays medieval torture devices and techniques.
Basilica of Saints Nazarius and Celsus in the Cité of Carcassonne.
Outside the Cité, the Pont-Vieux (“Old Bridge”) crosses the Aude connecting the old part of the town to the newer one. Originally built in the 12th century and then destroyed during the Albigensian Crusade, the current bridge was erected in the 14th century and restored in the 19th century.
The Museum of Fine Arts of Carcassonne (Musée des Beaux-Arts de Carcassonne) is located nearby, and hosts a rich collection of artworks by French and international artists dating from the 16th century until today. The most notable landmark of the lower town is the Carcassonne Cathedral, a fine example of Gothic architecture built during the 13th century. The church features an elaborate rose window and beautifully decorated interiors.
The Carcassonne Cathedral, located in the lower town.
Another notable church is located further north, the Church of Saint-Vincent, which was also built in Gothic style during the 13th century. Overall, the lower town is centered around a nice central square called Place Carnot and is surrounded by parks on all sides. The train station is located just north of the lower town, along the Canal du Midi. Boat tours along the Canal du Midi offer a unique view of the old town and a relaxing way to enjoy the area.
While accomodation in the Cité is possible, it is easier and less expensive to book a place in the lower town and reach the fortified town on foot. Restaurants are common throughout the city, especially in the Cité. The most popular local specialty is the cassoulet, a stew made with haricot beans and meat, spiced with garlic and herbs. Other typical dishes from this area are duck canards, poultry gizzards, and foie gras. Carcassonne is also known for its local wines.
A bowl of cassoulet served in a restaurant in the Cité of Carcassonne.